Krakow Ghetto: Kazimierz.

The main square; large and open, bordered on three sides by rows of homes, on the fourth side you can see across the river across the openness and the road that leads to the city centre of Krakow. It is a simple square. Quiet but for the sounds of passing cars, the darkness of coming rain deepens the grey colours. A cool breeze moves ever so slightly, peacefully in somber sadness. This is the main square of the historical Jewish district of Kazimierz – around which a wall would be built. On 18 May 1940 the lively, vibrant district of Kazimierz would cease in existence and emerge as the Krakow Ghetto.

Today, there is a memorial on this main square. I knew it was a memorial the moment I saw it (it is strikingly similar to another I have seen). Though looking upon it for the first time, I could not understand the significance.

As the war raged on, the ghetto ebbed and flowed with people. Some arrived in the beginning during the cleansing of the city (Krakow) and some arrived later as the Nazi army established themselves and began their cleansing across the continent. What became clear was: those who came never often stayed. In the mass selections held to determine who would stay and who would go, the people were called to stand in this main square. Row after row, family after family and person upon person they gathered to await their fate. The people were told that those who were selected would simply be moving to a new home. They were to bring with them their most valuable possessions. They often waited for days there in the square. It soon became normal to see older people, sick people, pregnant women and small children bringing chairs with them to the selection … to have a respite of sitting allowed them to endure the long wait. As the selections were carried out, the people were put on trains – their chairs left scattered about the square. Those who remained were left to gaze upon the masses of empty chairs.

Many survivors recounted this scene ... over and over was the memory of thousands of empty chairs on the square. And so the memorial was built on the main square of Kazimierz. Strong iron chairs scattered about; to remind those who come of those who were.